I decided that not only did i want to thru hike the MST but i wanted to do it fast! After watching and reading about the resent record setting run of the MST which was done a month earlier in 22days i knew i had to see what i could do it in, without running because honestly i hate to run I'm a hiker i walk, maybe fast but still walking. I knew there wasn't really an unsupported record to speak of so i figured I'd fix that and see what kind of time i could set. I wanted to set the record not only to push myself to see what i was capable of but also to motivate others to go out and push themselves beyond the norm. My game plan seemed simple enough to me, i may not be able to do the same miles per hour as a trail runner but i can do more hours of steady mileage and sleep less. My pack weight was down to low teens and the resupplies along the way were so frequent i wouldn't have to carry much food so i could keep the weight down and not worry about cooking which would save me time. Everything would be about time management for this hike.
So after a month of being in NC with ups and downs, gear switches and lots of fun with the girls on August 20, 2012 Wiggles drove me back to Clingman's Dome and her,Ava, and I camped on top so i could wake up the next morning and meet up with Sam who i had met on FB and who was starting his thru hike that morning also. And so on the morning of August 21, 2012 my adventure began....
8-21-12 - Clingman's Dome to Sylva
We woke up just before sunrise and packed up camp then headed up to the lookout tower to meet up with Sam and watch a pretty awesome sunrise. Sam and I hung out for a bit talking trail and getting our heads right. At 8:00am we took pictures at the start and said goodbye. Sam is planning to do a video documentary and I'll post links as soon as he's done and posts them. I had already hiked this section so it was a lot easier this time (mostly cuz i started at 8am and not 4am like the first time and it wasn't raining so the trail wasn't a river this time) and they had switched from a BRP road walk to other more busy roads that just so happened to go straight thru Sylva where i had just left the night before. For the record i think this change was pretty stupid and very dangerous and after looking at maps i found other safer ways they should have used but i did the section their way anyway.
I flew thru section 1 getting the 25m done in about 8hrs. I stopped in Cherokee for a snack around 4pm then made my way down the road stopping at Foodlion to grab the next few days food before heading the 18+ miles into Sylva. I got into Sylva around 9:30pm and headed to Wiggles casa to enjoy a last night in a comfy bed for awhile. I had a nice dinner,drank a lil wine and made myself a sack full of grilled cheeses to pack out.
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| Sunrise in the tower on Clingmans Dome |
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| Tower on Clingmans Dome |
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| Start of the MST |
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| Sam & I at the Start of the MST |
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| First snake of the trip only 1/2 way thru the day |
8-22-12 - Sylva to Natahala National Forest Road
Day #2 started out by me sleeping in till almost 8am then blasting off down the road. I have to say the road walk down Highway 23 was complete bulls#%*! all 13 miles of it were nerve racking crap with cars and trucks flying by at 70+mph while i clinched my cheeks tight and almost jogged to get it over with before noon. I had lunch by Balsam Gap then took off down some well welcomed trail. This section had lots of water and a few nice overlooks that distracted me a bit so i ended up hiking well into the night. Unfortunately some time during the night i missed a turn around the Natahala National Forest Road and ended up a good way off trail. So around 1am after realizing i may not be on trail i called it a day and made camp.
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| US21 - crossed my fingers and walked fast |
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| Do i have to? |
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| MST blaze...and back into woods :) |
8-23-12 - Natahala NFR to Camp before Skinny Dip Falls
Woke up knowing i had F'd up the night before and had to figure out where i was. As luck would have it i had no reception and couldn't use my gps to locate myself and with all the forest roads and trails crossing my best bet was to figure out where i went wrong and get back to it. I ended up on a back road behind WCU which i had passed the day before when on 23 and made it to a store where they informed me i had basically walked in a big circle during the night...lovely! and still no reception! i ended up hitching back to Sylva and checked the map and figured out where it was i got lost. I then hitched back to the NNFR and hiked back to the spot i turned wrong at. By this time it was almost 4:00pm and i had done no miles for the day and was not in the best of moods but knew i had to fly.
Just before 7:30pm i got to Devil's Courthouse and had done 13miles in just under 4hrs and did the side trail .3m to the summit where just my luck it was fogged out. Just the same between the fog i got a few peeks at views ,a couple came up and told me 2miles away was an awesome sunset spot so i blasted of and did the almost 2miles in under 30mins just in time to catch it. On my way and ran into a couple of AT Nobos from last year who were out for the night camping ( ? I'm so bad with names!) i hiked another few miles and after realizing i was going to pass Skinny dip falls in the dark i decided to stop just before and camp so i could enjoy a bath in the morning and actually get to see it.
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| Casa de lost as F |
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| Devil's Courthouse - fogged out :( |
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| Dinner - 2200 cal |
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| Sunset below Silvermine Bald |
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| Stealth spot near Graveyard Fields |
8-24-12 - Camp before Skinny Dip Falls to Dingle Creek
Nothing says good morning hiker like bear dogs running thru the woods barking at 6am. Up and out and within 15minutes i had a friend...a bear dog who decided to follow me. Stopped at Skinny dip falls and had a early morning freezing cold bath that woke me right up. Glad i stopped and camped the night before because i would have hated to have missed that! Soon after a quick breakfast the dog and i took back off and within a few miles i ran into the "hunters" whom lost the dog and 7 others...these guys were smart...real smart! so glad that's not my gene pool!
Spent the rest of the day on decent trail that you could tell some of it gets lots of day use. Played a lil dodge the trail runners thru some areas and ended up making it to an overlook where i listened to a guy play a violin and i gotta tell ya it was Celtic music that did something good to my soul! Then at Sleepy Gap i ran into a group of hippies who drove me into Skyland to do a resupply then took me back to the trail. I ended up hanging out with them for a bit and didn't start hiking again till just before midnight so i ended up hiking till around 2:30am then stealth camped by Dingle creek.
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| My new friend |
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| Skinny Dip Falls - Bath spot :) very cold! |
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| i wanna climb that too.... |
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| When the sky looks like that hike faster! |
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| My mom loves Butterflys so i take her pics |
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| Stoney Bald overlook - This guy was playing amazing Celtic music |
8-25-12 - Dingle Creek to CCC pavilion Craggy flats
Woke up to trail runners hitting the trail early. My knee is troubling me today so after hiking only a few miles i walked into Skyland to get a hot breakfast at Bogangles then iced it and got a ride back up to the trail and pushed on. Trail is very much used thru this section with some cool stuff like the old buildings at rattlesnake lodge and ran into a few good people including a guy and his 2 kids 5 & 7 who both learned to walk on the trails around here and let me tell ya those kids were climbing rocks like pros. Hiked into the dark and got up to the pavilion so i could be in position for tomorrows 6k mts that i had to get to. The wind on Craggy flats was strong and chilly and forced me to set up my tarp for wind block.
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| MST plaque honoring Arch Nichols |
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| The feet getting a soaking |
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| Met a guy with his 2 kids who both learned to walk in the woods...and the oldest was rocking the Barefoots too! |
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| I dance on ladders |
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| CCC pavilion |
8-26-12 - Craggy flats to Black Mountain campground
I climb mountains! Today i got to bag two 6,000 footers... the first was Blackstock Knob which was a nice climb aside from my tiny off trail trip that i did apparently because i enjoy adding miles to my days :) then a blast over to Mitchell where i got amped on mello yellows and candy then hung out on the summit for a bit. The hike down to the campground was interesting and my knee was not doing so hot. I stopped to charge my phone at the office and was invited to stay for free and use their phone to call base camp and tell them my location. I ate a couple mint Klondikes and then ran into a couple guys who were out for the week bagging some mountains. They invited me to their camp for some microbrews and lots of trail talk...they're interested in thru hiking and had a million questions. Ended up being a long night...
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| Even under the pavilion i needed a wind break |
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| Fresh mountain spring water...yummy |
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| Love these lil dudes |
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| Lunch - cold mashed taters with chips |
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| View from Mitchell |
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| I climb mountains! |
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| Head into the darkness |
8-27-12 - Black Mountain campground to Stealth Bald mnt FR
Woke up with swollen eyes and knee and not off to a very good start. Had to walk into a town an extra 2miles to ice my knee get some meds and remove some liquid from my knee...not a pretty thing at all...and i did it myself....do not try that at home...or on trail...I'm just a sick person who embraces the pain. After the operation and some pain meds i headed back out and dragged myself till after long after dark till i basically just couldn't walk anymore and stealthed on an old fire road. This would be the end of all this break down business it's hiker leg time soon please!
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| oh...only 734.6 miles to go |
8-28-12 - Stealth Bald mnt FR to parking area FR-496
Thank you today for the downhills! I didn't even mind the river crossings...but then...then you did that climb to me and will someone please go thru and cut that stuff back! The climb up to the chimneys was covered with thorny crap that cut my legs up pretty good and because of fires the trail wasn't marked so well. The climb toward the end of the day was ruff but the views on the cliffs were so worth it! Sat on top of a chimney for a bit and enjoyed the awesome views. Most of the camp areas were taken up by outward bound kids so i had to push past them and find a small stealthish spot just my size.
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| Ahhh...river crossing |
8-29-12 - parking area FR-496 to shelter on DBST
The day started with some nice views and then play in the water day i crossed so much water and the trails were well used so it was a breeze even with my knee just starting to fell better i pushed so i could get to the DBST and get to the shelter. There was no way i was gonna just walk by Grandfather Mt and not go up it! So i pushed late and did the few extra miles on the DBST to the shelter. Now I'd only have a short hike up in the am for sunrise :)
8-30-12 - Grandfather Mt to Mayzie & Josh's casa
Up early and up Grandfather mt for sunrise and breakfast...what a way to start a day! Lots of ladders and ropes to get up it kinda reminded me of the AT in Maine and NH which i loved! I'm pumped and ready to boogie! Trails nice thru here and just a lil roll to it that helped me keep a good pace thru the day..well that and the energy gels i got from a cyclist in trade for a few metrx bars...those things chased down by a mtdew someone gave me at an overlook had me flying.... I finished with some trail and road walking along the BRP then headed into Mayzie and josh's place for some food,shower,laundry, and a good night sleep on a bed with fans blowing on me...i earned it today!...ahhhhh!
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| View on Grandfather Mt |
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| Lots of ladders and ropes to climb |
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| Had to stop and play with the horses |
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| Just a Little Sumpin after a hard days hike |
8-31-12 - Mayzie & Josh's to Alligator back overlook
Today was a blast! Woke up late and hung out and had coffee before rolling down the trail. It was a mix of trail and road walks today but the side adventures are what made the day. I ended up getting offered a free meal from the DJ at Freebourne's and I'm not one to turn down a meal so i excepted...this ended up being a longer pit stop then i thought after the DJ announced who i was and what i was up to 1/2 the bar decided to buy me beers and talk my ear off for hours. I barely managed to escape after a few hours and drug myself the next 6 miles till i found a nice rock outcrop to stealth. I was able to watch the sun finish setting then enjoyed a night of clear sky and bunches of stars... today was a good day! and i am feeling like a machine....welcome hiker legs i missed you :)
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| Long hot walk down dirt road |
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| Black & Blue burger at Freebournes |
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| Freebournes |
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| Oh dear :) |
9-1-12 - Alligator back overlook to Blackwater UM church
Woke up ate and packed up to head to the top of Bluff Mt to finish watching the sunrise. Had a pretty good sleep under the stars and feeling energized. Real nice trail to start the day with thru some fields and along the BRP. Finished the day with some road walking and tried to hit mcd before it closed but missed it by 10mins. Got to Blackwater church late and charged the phone and took a nap under the awning.
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| Just my luck i was 10 mins late... |
9-2-12 - Blackwater UM church to Hanging Rock SP camping
Started the day with some road walking and cruised thru towns till i the sky opened up and the rain come down side ways and by the bucket. Got to the family camp area at dark and was invited to stay free in one of the sites. Was also given some hot chilli and cornbread by the caretaker couple. The kids in the site near me and the parents are annoying! On the plus side it seems to be done raining for the day...i hope...
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| It rained so hard i had to hide under an awning |
9-3-12 - Hanging Rock SP camping to Summerfield UM chruch
Woke up to a pack of wild children and the parents screaming about wasps and running around chasing them with things wondering why they were being stung...I'm no expert on wasps but I'd say if you don't want to get stung don't chase them around trying to kill them...i walked to the water tap that was surrounded by wasps to brush my teeth and they didn't mess with me. Maybe try living with the woods and not trying to conquer everything's a better plan...just saying. Once i set off i got to hike past some cool waterfalls and nice well used trails followed by some road walking thru towns. Walking thru the rain and being wet the day before caused me to get a bit of flu like feeling so i was on the hunt for some whiskey to chase out the demons. Unfortunately it was labor day and the only ABC was closed...makes no sence that you would close on a day that people hang out and drink but hey it is what it is...so i kept truckin! My luck soon changed when i stumbled upon Double K sports bar and $2 shots of Evan. Feeling much better i set back out and was soon kidnapped by a local girl for some refreshments and then dropped back off to finish my night hike. Aside from feeling a bit sick my day was pretty good and ended on a high note.
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| Home sweet home |
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| When you see warning signs it means shyts about to get good |
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| Whoever decided to close the ABC on a holiday is an idiot! |
9-4-12 - Summerfield UM chruch to Soccer complex
The day started with a stop by the store for some flu meds and a good breakfast before hitting some bike paths around the lake. Half way thru the day MoNa decided she would give me a bath. After trekking thru the rain all day i see the soccer complex with open bathrooms and all i can think is power to charge, a coke machine, and a place to sit out of the rain for a bit. Well after plugging in my phone and drinking a cold sprite i decided to walk around and check the place out...and what do i find...the locker room door wide open! Well normally i would never go inside somewhere like this but it being wide open i decided to see if by any chance there was a shower...and yes there was! So you know i had to take a long hot shower...and let me tell ya it was exactly what my body needed! and yes i left no trace! I then curled up on the floor and went right to sleep....
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| Medicating myself for a sore throat |
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| Oh yeah i did! |
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| Hot shower...how about 2 :) |
9-5-12 - Soccer complex to NC49 shed stealth
Had to wake up and take another shower i just couldn't help myself. It was the prefect way to start my day! Feeling good and wanting breakfast i quickly made my way down the road to Greensboro to hit Country Kitchen for breakfast...and it was the best breakfast i ever had hiking! loved the place,food was awesome,and people were the best...if you hike the MST you have to eat there. To add to my awesome day i decided to swing in the dollar store and treat myself to some new socks for my blisters and scored some free hotdogs. Then realizing there was somewhere i wanted to be the was 20+miles away and closed at 5pm i took off down the road and kept a steady pace until 4:50pm when i walked up to Emily's cookies...omg! those cookies are amazing! so worth the pace i made today to get to them and the owners have a good story behind it.... After filling my face with cookies i took back off down the road...my first stop was Jeffries Cross baptist church where i was allowed to use the bathroom and get water and build a small fire in the back to cook my pack of dogs...but i felt as if they didn't want me to stay so after eating i packed up and headed of into the night to get confused...after throwing a fit on the side of the road i decided my best plan would be to just sleep and figure it out in the am so i went old school and slept in a prefab shed (AmpLexus would be proud!)
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| Breakfast at Country kitchen - OMG so good! |
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| Liar! |
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| Owners of Emily's cookies...such nice people with an amazing story |
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| First time I'm actually cooking food this trip |
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| Yeap i'm gonna sleep in that...free hostile :) |
9-6-12 - NC49 shed stealth to Bible Baptist church
After crawling out of my shelter i reorganized and got my bearings i headed down the road. The day was basically a bunch of road walking down questionable roads with lots of traffic followed by rain that forced me to take shelter at the Arrowhead Inn. This turned out to be a good thing as the owners let me rest on the porch and served me a plate of snacks. Let me break down this awesome plate for ya... Watermelon(seedless), concord grapes,banana,baby carrots, multi grain pita, humus,imported cheese,and sliced Kobe roast beef....top shelf and tasted it! Once the rain let up a bit i headed back out for more road walking. I had to pass the prison and about 1/4 mile from it i was approached by an officer who informed me they were doing a drill and he was going to have to drive me a mile or so up the road to avoid it. Then more road walking to resupply in Butner. I stopped at the Bible baptist church to recharge my phone and once the rain started again i decided to call it a night...
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| Scored this awesome snack at Arrowhead Inn while i hid from rain |
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| My heads always in the clouds |
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| Scenic as in cars trying to hit you and act like they don't see you |
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| Median walking |
9-7-12 - Bible Baptist church to Youngsville Baptist church
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| Just how i like it...dangerous...now play some banjo music! |
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| You see a kids playground... I see a shelter |
9-8-12 - Youngsville Baptist church to Free spirit FWB church
Woke up to mowers and lots of fog. Walked to the store to have breakfast and ended up sitting out front talking to a local old school pimp who bought me coffee and talked my ear off. The fog soon rolled out and the hot sun came out to play bake the hiker as i walked down more roads staring at more soy,corn,tobacco...joy! To add to it this section was full of bugs trying to eat my sweaty body to death! I did find some comfort along the way when i stumbled upon a church having a cookout and got to eat some real eastern Carolina barbq pork (let me explain for you yanks...eastern Carolina barbq is vinegar based and doesn't hide the taste of the meat like the syrupy red sauce everyone else uses) and some smoked chicken to boot! then off to more road walking into the night where i found yet another playground set to sleep on.
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| The town pimp's car...he was a trip! and bought me coffee |
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| Eastern Carolina pulled pork - UNBEATABLE! |
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| Smoked chicken too...yum yum |
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| My new thing is sleeping in playground equipment |
9-9-12 - Free spirit FWB church to Webb chapel UM church
After being woke up and told to leave, which was not a pleasant start i began my road walk, this was unpleasantly followed by a drunk throwing a almost full beer at me at 7am and shouting something stupid...funny part was i was more offended that he wasted a nearly full miller high life then anything. A few more miles down the road i ran into my third "issue" when the local cops decided to stop and harass me...unfortunately for them I'm not the average dumb redneck they encounter and i quickly served them a helping of knowledge and parted with them. Once i started back down the road i was joined by a puppy who decided to follow me for the next 18miles to town. He was a stray and it was sunday so there was no help i called vets and finally talked to a cop who told me about a man in town "the wacko" who hated people but loved dogs...so i quickly took him there and the man took him and promised to find him a good home. I have to admit not a lot gets to me but animals in trouble or in need hit a soft spot.
On the plus side this gave me time in town and i ended up deciding to treat myself to a nice meal (thanks to mom and dad who dropped some $$$ in the acct )...what i found was Andy's a 50's style diner with old school favs! When i opened the menu i found the 50oz burger challenge...now had i known this was there i would have prepared for it but since i hadn't and if you don't finish it it costs $20 i decided to go with something a bit lighter on the stomach...2 hotdogs all the way, an Andy's burger all the way, a paminto cheese grilled cheese and chilli cheese fries...yum yum! Now this meal ended up costing me a bit of night hiking with a very full stomach but what it did for my taste buds was well worth the bloated butt dragging down the road.
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| Soy Soy and more Fn Soy.... |
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| My new friend here followed me for about 18miles |
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| Wish i had known about this food challenge ahead of time... |
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| Hostile...this is becoming a trend |
9-10-12 - Webb chapel UM church to Bridge over Neuse river
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| My Nunu energy drink blew the top off |
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| Bags of doubles whenever i can (never would i eat this at home!) |
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| I'm not to picky about where i sleep |
9-11-12 - Bridge over Neuse river to Copperhead landing shelter
Nothing like waking up on your birthday laying on cardboard next to a shipping container behind the outback steak house...so it being my birthday i pretty much hiked what i wanted to and drank and ate between stopping and resupplying my birthday drinks and some food and made my way to the "beach" along the inter-coastal to sit my feet in sand and have a drink. I packed up before dark and headed to the shelter to stay for the night. Not a bad birthday for being alone on a trail...
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| BK Bday breakfast |
9-12-12 - Copperhead landing shelter to Williston UM church
I finally found the perfect thing to wake up to the morning after your birthday when you consumed enough whiskey to remember it in the morning...military jet planes flying within 100yrds of your head. At 6am this sound is pure pleasure and starts your day in a happy happy joy joy kinda way.
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| This car was in a 50cent video |
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| Me likey! |
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| Hanging out in the shop |
9-13-12 - Williston UM church to Ocracoke campground
9-14-12 - Ocracoke campground to Avon stealth with Taba
Well after a failed attempt at sleep that was spoiled by a combination of sideways rain and bugs trying to eat me alive i decided to head out early...very early...4am...and slowly made my way to the ferry then onto some nice beach / road walking till i ended up in Avon and met up with Scot aka Taba who writes the giude book for the MST and has just started his 5th thru hike only this time he has added a twist and is skateboarding the road sections (brilliant!) We ended up hanging out and eating at Cafe 12 (must stop in Avon!) then sitting in front of the gift shop and straditizing our sleeping plan which ended up working out perfectly as we share the same views on stealthing...
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| They take turtles serious in the OBX |
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| Key West Flat from Cafe 12 - The Bomb! |
9-15-12 - Avon to Nags Head
Slept in a bit then packed up and had breakfast at the Avon cafe with Taba before we set off on our own ways. It was nice to meet him and get to spent some time chatting it's strange how hikers have this brotherly bond as if no matter how long you've known people at home another hiker can seem to slip right into that long time friend role and within 5mins you have inside jokes...so off he skated and i walked on pushing thru the day...let me tell you the beach walking was brutal with some nice wind in my face and the road walks were just as fun. Today i made it to a place i had been dreamin of for the whole trip...Frank's dog house...hot dog and beer...oh yeah! Then stopped at the KOA for the chilli cook-off but was late and only scored 2 bowls. After a lovely sunset by a dock i walked into the dark and over bridges i wouldn't enjoy driving over i ended up in Nags Head and found something that made me so very happy... a 7/11...oh thank heaven! can you say Slurpie! Now as fate has it my friend Sean and his dad were in Nags Head for the weekend judging a surf contest for ESA and they drove right past me and called me. After learning there was a beach house and cold beer my night was over so i went back to the beach house with them and got my pre finish party on.
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| Taba packing up after a cool stealth |
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| Taba skateboarding the trail |
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| Taba & I |
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| I hiked over 900 miles thinking of this |
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| This was so worth the 900 miles to get to...hotdog with barbq and coleslaw & hot sause |
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| This is the house from "Nihts in Rodanthe" |
9-16-12 - Nags Head to Summit in Jockey Ridge SP
Woke up and had some coffee and a lil breakfast then headed out to finish around 10:30am. Walked down the beach past the surf contest then up to the road and over to the summit of the dune. Got to the top at 1:08pm and got a few pictures then headed down to the visitor center i was stopped on the way by a girl scout group where i answered questions and explained what i had just done. I signed in and the lady asked if i had just thru hiked and i told her what i did. She called for the 4wheeler so she could take me back up to the top for photos so i got to summit twice and once was on a 4wheeler :)
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| Woke up to this View from the beach house |
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| BOOOOYAHHHHH! |
Total time - 26 days 5 hours 8 minutes - Below is the mileage per day (according to the 2010 guide book)
DAY DATE MILES HIKED
Day #1 8-21 / 8am - 8-22 / 8am 43miles
Day #2 8-22 / 8am - 8-23 / 8am 32miles
Day #3 8-23 / 8am - 8-24 / 8am 20miles
Day #4 8-24 / 8am - 8-25 / 8am 36miles
Day #5 8-25 / 8am - 8-26 / 8am 27miles
Day #6 8-26 / 8am - 8-27 / 8am 24miles
Day #7 8-27 / 8am - 8-28 / 8am 25miles
Day #8 8-28 / 8am - 8-29 / 8am 31miles
Day #9 8-29 / 8am - 8-30 / 8am 33miles
Day #10 8-30 / 8am - 8-31 / 8am 43miles
Day #11 8-31 / 8am - 9-1 / 8am 34miles
Day #12 9-1 / 8am - 9-2 / 8am 52miles
Day #13 9-2 / 8am - 9-3 / 8am 35miles
Day #14 9-3 / 8am - 9-4 / 8am 36miles
Day #15 9-4 / 8am - 9-5 / 8am 26miles
Day #16 9-5 / 8am - 9-6 / 8am 33miles
Day #17 9-6 / 8am - 9-7 / 8am 51miles
Day #18 9-7 / 8am - 9-8 / 8am 43miles
Day #19 9-8 / 8am - 9-9 / 8am 47miles
Day #20 9-9 / 8am - 9-10 / 8am 54miles
Day #21 9-10 / 8am - 9-11 / 8am 48miles
Day #22 9-11 / 8am - 9-12 / 8am 32miles
Day #23 9-12 / 8am - 9-13 / 8am 44miles
Day #24 9-13 / 8am - 9-14 / 8am 31miles
Day #25 9-14 / 8am - 9-15 / 8am 32miles
Day #26 9-15 / 8am - 9-16 / 8am 46miles
Day #27 9-16 / 8am - 1:08pm 8miles
